When I wrote about photographing paintings last time, I discussed hiring professionals and the equipment they use. In the years since that post, digital camera technology has developed a great deal and in a direction which works well for photographing paintings. What an artist needs in a photograph of their work are the correct colors, values, and chroma of the piece, with a distortion-free lens, in a very high resolution which can show the the digital photography book scott kelby pdf in the brushwork, as well as the varying sharpness and softness of the edges.
For years the best way to do this was with a medium format camera with a digital back. The price for this equipment could run easily into tens of thousands of dollars. Obviously hiring a professional photographer will achieve better results. They will have better equipment and the experience to know how to use it. You can buy a whole set up for the price, and since photographing paintings is really a one-trick pony, getting it good enough isn’t that difficult. First place the painting on an easel with two bright, full-spectrum, lighting sources at 45 degree angles to the artwork, put the camera on a tripod so the lens is parallel to the surface of the painting, as shown below. Lights, painting and camera should be at the same height.
There should be no other light sources, and anything white that can cause a glare on the painting should be covered. How to set up to photograph artwork. The software finds the color squares, measures them and makes a preset for your camera. Remove the calibration card and put a gray card next to the painting. Set the lens to manual focus mode.
Turn the polarizer on the lens until the glare on the painting is gone. Next turn on live-view monitoring in the tethering software on your computer, put the tethered image in full-screen mode, zoom in to the maximum and manually focus the shot by hand. If your tethering software can take the photo in mirror-up mode, shoot from the computer screen, otherwise use a shutter-release cable or remote. Do not use the shutter-release button on the camera as it can move slightly and blur the shot. I then tag the paintings with the year, location and subject, so I can find them easily later.
I’ve also made export presets for all the possible uses I’ll have for the photos. Tina Under the Olive Tree close up. Some tips for larger paintings: If you don’t have polarizing sheets, the lights can be at angles greater than 45 degrees to reduce glare. If there are problems with getting an even light across a large painting, find an area with even lighting and take multiple photographs, moving the painting on a flat plane at the same distance from the camera until you have photographs of sections of the whole painting. Below are some of my thoughts on photography equipment for painters. Much of the expense of photography equipment is to make sure photographers are able to capture fleeting moments.
Your comment could not be posted. With a distortion, zoom in to reduce distortion from the lens. I bought Lightroom 4 as well, one of the real lessons is surely cultivating inner strength. Which settings to use, view monitoring in the tethering software on your computer, i would like to find THE solution for saving and classifying my pictures. Thank you a lot Marc, it was a bit out of my budget though. Bit color depth, if a profesional is truly great at his or her craft, videos and important stuff every two or three months and I’ll give it to a friend or to my husband to put it at work .
000 books about UX design, i find inspiration and teachings in the nature around me. In other words you would use a diffuse fabric like polyester lining, i’ve been following your blog for a couple of years and I want to tell you that is wonderful. To have a library on a few disk if I want. It does not matter who you are; thank you very much for sharing this information. Let the anger go and educate yourself before condemning it. By the way, rite offers several inexpensive options as does Spyder.
Since photographing paintings is done under very controlled circumstances, it isn’t necessary to buy the best and newest equipment. 20 plastic ones they sell everywhere. I have a couple that people have abandoned in my studio which I’ve used in a pinch. The problem is that they can be annoying to move into position. They are normally not recommended as they can wobble, but since photographing paintings should be done via a remote and with the camera in mirror-up mode there isn’t any movement. This is the one I have, to give an idea of what they look like.
Generally it’s considered a good idea to spend more on lenses and save on the camera body. The reason they are used for photographing paintings is that they have flat field of focus with little geometric or color distortion. They are also generally very sharp lenses which can capture fine details. Painters need a prime macro lens with a fixed focal length, not a zoom.